Welcome to the Jungle

This weekend, Emily and I decided to take a trip to the Amazon Basin in Bolivia. In just a short 3 hours by van, we reached the hot, humid lushness of Villa Tunari, a small town northeast of Cochabamba. When we arrived, we checked into a hostel and went to grab a lunch of special jungle lunch of Surubi (river fish), fried yuka and platanos, rice, and maracuya juice.

Surubi (river fish), fried yuka and platanos, rice, and maracuya juice

Inside the restuarant

After lunch we headed to Inti Wara Yassi (meaning Sun, Moon, and Stars in the Quechua, Aymara, and Guaraní languages respectively). There we saw rescued monkeys, birds, and other animals (even a sloth) and took a short hike through the jungle to a vista overlooking Villa Tunari.

The next day we went to La Jungla, a park run by children that looks like the most extensive tree house you could imagine. We played on the swings and hanging bridges and waded in the nearby river. After another delicious lunch of Surubi we returned home to Cochabamba Sunday afternoon.

Video of monkeys and swings to come…

After living in the temperate, springlike weather of Cochabamba and visiting the freezing cold of La Paz and Toro Toro, we have now seen the third side of Bolivia: the hot humidity of the jungle. Felt like home. Here are a few pics from the trip.

 

Emily with butterfly (mariposa)

Weird trees all over jungle

View from jungle hike

For Mom

Plaza Principal

Cochabamba

Woman selling juice

Boy selling icecream

 

 

Woman selling juiceChild with balloon

Woman at fountain

Toro Toro promotion in plaza

Top 6

There are many things to love in Bolivia – and many things that aren’t so great. Here’s a list of a few of my top choices.

LIKES

1. Panaderias

The streets of Bolivia are lined with panaderias – stores that make homemade bread daily and fill the streets with the smell of yeast in the oven. Their specialty is pancitas – little round pieces of unsliced bread about the size of a saucer. They come in plain, wheat, or sprinkled with cheese (my favorite) and are about 50 centavos (7 cents) a piece.

2. Taxi Trufis

I love taxi trufis. As I have mentioned before, these are taxis that travel on routes throughout the city. Each route is assigned a number, and you just hail the taxi with your desired route number on top. You hardly have to wait more that 5 minutes for one to pass by, and the other passengers and music on the radio is always a surprise (MC Hammer, Bruce Springstein, Daddy Yankee maybe?). And they will take you anywhere on their route for 1.50 bolivianos (20 cents).

3. Exchange Rate

In all reality, the exchange rate of the Boliviano to the U.S. dollar is not a great thing – is just underlines the poverty and weak economy in this country. But on a very superficial level, the each rate of about 7 to 1 makes traveling as a young, unemployed student much easier. Hotel rooms are about $5 or less – so is a good meal. Plane tickets to La Paz are $50. Taxis are less than $1. It’s a lot easier on the wallet than a trip to London or Paris.

4. Salteñas

These meat, potato, veggie and spice filled pastries are a Bolivian specialty and a delicious treat (see other posts for pictures). We have them every Sunday for lunch, and it is definitely something to look forward to – and something I will miss.

5. Mystical History

From my experience, World History lessons back home often skim over the incredible history of South and Central America, where the largest civilizations in the world once roamed. The history of the Incas and other South American civilizations is very interesting and embedded in the culture today in a very profound way. The Bolivians link to the past is strong, and the way the past resonates in current culture is something I am slowly gaining an ear for.

6. Plazas

Cochabamba and Bolivia are riddled with plazas. To me, plazas are a little more functional than city parks which often become sketchy and abandoned in the States. However, they still serve the same purspose as a shady outdoor escape and beautifying touch in an urban setting. Cocha has many plazas – including the plaza principal, which is the main plaza in every city. This is where city officials, tourism groups, and health ministers come to make public announcements, it is where dissenters come to protest, it is where powerful, retired men come to discuss current events, it is where families come to play with their children. It is a great public, social space that I think many U.S. cities lack.

DISLIKES

1. The battle for change

I’m not sure what it is – maybe that coins cost more to make than they are worth – but there seems to be a definite shortage of change in this country. Every day is a battle to break your big bills into smaller bills and the smaller bills into change in which you buy everything. I have my strategy. I know the stores that will break the big bills – what to buy with the smaller ones to get the most change. But it is almost certain that if you try to pay with a 10 for something that cost 5.50, the vendor will ask if you can pay with change instead. No one wants to give it up. And most places (including the taxi trufis) will hardly ever allow you to pay with anything but. It’s a constant struggle.

2. Machismo

Despite a good amount of formal women’s rights, machismo is alive and well in Bolivia. Bottom line: it’s very annoying.

3. Potatoes

I encountered this same problem when I was in Peru. Bolivians (and Peruvians) eat potatoes with every meal. Boiled potatoes. Mashed potatoes. Favorite pasta: gnocchi (made from potatoes). At least our empleada here makes some delicious potatoes. And the French Fries are really good. But I don’t think I’ve eaten a baked potatoes since 2006, and I don’t plan to crave them anytime soon. With the rice and bread that often accompanies meals as well, I am having a carb overload.

4. Environment

The Bolivians are trying, but environmental protection is a long way off. You and see the smog in the air and smell it in the bigger cities. Littering is no big deal, and you can see the results in the streets. The river running through Cochabamba is green muck. The amazing natural landscape distracts you from the pollution and litter, but after awhile it is hard to ignore. It’s sad to see such a beautiful place become so littered.

5. Water

The greatest luxury. Having to make sure the water you consume is boiled and purified before you drink it is definitely a downside. I experienced the effects of contamination (water or food) last weekend, and it was pretty dire. Makes you appreciate the faucet water back home in a whole new way.

6. Temperature Swing

The temperature swings 40+ degrees in any given day in Cochabamba. While this makes the cold mornings more bearable, it makes walking around the city a kind of striptease. I have to wear layers and be patients with the constant wardrobe change throughout the day. Better that 110 degrees dusk til dawn I suppose…

Bolivia: Country Brief

For previous country brief go here: https://bolivinitup.wordpress.com/2009/06/21/bolivia-country-brief-4/

The indigenous population & poverty

Perhaps the greatest challenge to economic development in Bolivia is its deeply inhibited indigenous population.  Since the Spanish invasion, the indigenous people of Bolivia have been ruled by the elite minority.  “Until the revolutionary government of Victor Paz Estenzoro installed in 1952, most indigenous people lived in serf-like arrangements in rural areas.  The agrarian reform in 1953 freed the peasants in the highlands and gave them access to land.”  Indigenous people were also used as forced labor in the highland mines until they were freed and unionized in the 1950s.  In the 1970s and more recently, the coca growing regions of Chapare and Yungas and the lowlands near Santa Cruz have been the focus of settlement.   “The ebb and flow of these [coca] eradication efforts have played a significant role in the income sources of poor rural households.”

As a result of this history, Bolivia’s majority indigenous population remains disproportionately poor.  According to the UN Development Programme, the incidence of extreme poverty among the indigenous population is almost twice as much as within the non-indigenous population.  This poverty is tied to several other issues of disparity, a sampling of which is shown in the table below.  In 2001, the national census estimated that 62% of the population over 15 years old self-identified as indigenous.  As long as a majority of Bolivia’s population is hindered by extreme poverty and lack of education, the country cannot experience sustainable and long-term growth.  Thus, growth policies will need to be pro-poor in order to have a lasting impact.

Indigenous/Non-indigenous Gap, 2006

	Non-indigenous	Indigenous	Gap
Incidence of extreme poverty	24.1%	49.2%	2.0
Chronic malnutrition of pop.  under 3 yrs	15.7%	27.8%	1.8
% of women that work in non-agricultural jobs	88.7%	55.8%	0.63
Student pop.  (14-18 yrs) that have completed primarily educ.	69.2%	53.3%	0.8
% of women that use contraceptives (traditional or modern)	77.9%	43.7%	0.56
Rate of infant mortality (per 1000 born)	33.0	62.0	1.88
% of population with potable water	80.1%	55.4%	0.7
% of population with basic sanitation	61.3%	53.7%	0.9

Source: Programa de las Naciones Unidas para el Desarrollo, 2006

The indigenous population & the informal economy

These factors are closely related to another major growth challenge in Bolivia, which is its large informal economy.  Approximately 80% of workers in Bolivia are employed in the informal economy, more than in any other South American country.  The informal economy attracts those groups most affected by poverty and marginalization, namely indigenous people, women, and the very young and old.  About one-fourth of the uneducated population and two-thirds of women work in the informal economy.  The small formal economy is a result of several factors, including complex regulations for entering the formal market, limited access to credit, weak institutions, and a negative perception of the benefits of the formal market.  It is especially hard for women to enter the formal economy because of familial and domestic obligations.  Such a large informal economy limits funding for public goods and services, threatens the integrity of the nation’s institutions, and can have a negative impact on economic growth.

From Library of Congress, World Bank, UNICEF, UN Development Programme, UDAPE websites

Back to Work

I returned to work this morning. Below is a picture of me with just a few of the things I now need to enter the prisons. First, my identification card from my organization. Second, a stamp from the prison guard that shows I am a visitor. Third, a mask because of the recent H1N1 scare (this is new). In addition to this, I sometimes have to show my stamped and signed letter from the Regimin. Our newest volunteers had to go to the doctor and get a certificate of health before receiving this letter. Moral of the story: entering these prisons isn’t easy. But, as long as I have my gear I usually get in with no questions asked.

I have 3.5 weeks left of work and A LOT to do. After talking to the inmates during our microenterprise management workshops – and talking to our fellow staff members – my boss and I decided that the prisons could really benefit from some coordinated marketing. So we made a coordinated plan with the rest of the staff and are implementing it over the next few weeks. The plan includes many things including: making catalogs of the products made inside the prisons (with nice, glossy pictures) –  making banners, posters, and fliers to advertise the stores outside of the prisons that sell their products – painting murals and more advertisements on the walls outside the stores – organizing the stores and adding hanging racks and shelving – and building new stores and refurbishing oldones – and much more. My mini-grant money from Sustainable Bolivia, as well as the money I received from Partners of the Americas, is going towards refurbishing and adding to the store outside of the women’s prison. Another volunteer is using her grant money to build a store outside of another prison. I think these changes made to the women’s store will really help reinvigorate the store and better market the products made my the women. And this, in turn, will help them support themselves and their families. We are having a grand inauguration of the refinished store on July 28th, my last week in Cochabamba. But there is a lot of work left to be done before then, so I gotta get back in gear.

My Special Visitors

Mom and Dad with sunset over Lake Titicaca

My parents came to visit! I met them in La Paz Thursday and over the weekend we traveled to Copacabana with Nique and Emily. They came to Cochabamba Monday to visit my Bolivian home and are headed to Santa Cruz today (Wednesday) to catch their flight home.

I am very fortunate to have parents that are willing to travel all the way to Bolivia to visit me (best care package award?). It was a truly amazing weekend. Thank you mom and dad for making it happen – thanks for enduring the 3 vaccinations – for not freaking out when the Bolivian embassy didn’t get your passports and visas back to you until the day before you left – for being patient when your bags were lost somewhere between Miami and La Paz – for not complaining despite the altitude headaches and nose bleeds – for staying positive when Montezuma took his revenge on my body and mom’s – for enduring the 1.5 hour flight delay to Cochabamba – for tolerating the cold showers – and, overall, for always ensuring that the good outweighs the bad despite how bad it may get. Y’all are the best.

Below are some pictures from our adventure this weekend.

LA PAZ

Our trip started in La Paz. I met my parents there Thursday night and we spent Friday exploring the city and eating some delicious food.

Mercado de Hechicería (Witches’ Market)

Llama fetus (to bury beneath a new house as an offering to Pachamama – the earth mother – for good luck)

 

Around town

Plaza Murillo and Presidential Palace

View from hotel room of Illimani mountain

COPACABANA & LAKE TITICACA

On Saturday morning Emily, Nique, my parents, and I took a bus to Copacabana (12,540 ft). We got there around lunch time – just in time to enjoy the Copacabana specialty (trucha or lake trout) at a little stand on the beach. Later that day we explored the city, watched a spectacular sunset, and ate a delicious dinner.

On the way to Copacabana

Mom and Dad on ferry

Lakefront at Copacabana

Dad with the remains of his Trucha (lake trout)

View of Lake Titicaca from our roomCathedral in Copacabana

Bolivia may be landlocked, but it still has a navy (armada) protecting its lake

Lakeside

Kids playing with toy boats

Women on the beach

Sunset on Lake Titicaca

Dad watching the sunset

 

Unique sleeping arrangement: In the words of mom, "a bed for papa bear, momma bear, and baby bear"

ISLA DEL SOL

Sunday morning we headed to Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) on Lake Titicaca. This island was known as the birthplace of the sun by the Incas. A boat dropped us off at one end of the island, and we spent the day hiking through the hills to the other end – stopping to eat our boxed lunch and to see some Inca ruins along the way. The scenery was dramatic and beautiful – and truly unique – with the highest navigable lake in world framed by snow capped mountains and ancient ruins. The hike was exhausting, but one of the best I’ve ever been on. Afterwards, we returned to Copacabana for a much deserved dinner and night of sleep. Monday we took the bus back to La Paz and caught a flight to Cochabamba that night.

Boats to Isla del Sol

View of Lake Titicaca from Isla del Sol

View of Lake Titicaca from Isla del Sol

View of Lake Titicaca from Isla del Sol

Hiking trail on Isla del Sol

Hiking across Isla del Sol

View of Lake Titicaca from Isla del Sol

Lake Titicaca with Cordillera Real Mountains (chain of the Andes)

Stanley and Stella also made the hike to the birthplace of the sun

View of Lake Titicaca and Cordillera Real mountain chain from Isla del Sol

COCHABAMBA

We arrived to Cochabamba late Monday night. On Tuesday, my parents came to my host-family’s house for an authentic Bolivian lunch of Silpancho. They got to meet and get to know my host-mom and her two sons. It was a fun cultural exchange. Afterwards we walked around the city and enjoyed the warmer temperatures and lower altitude. They left this morning, and it was back to work for me.

It was a wonderful long weekend.

Happy 4th of July!

The 4^th is one of my favorite holidays so I couldn’t let it pass by without saying have a good one! I have some very, very special visitors coming tomorrow so I will not be around to post on the official day. I will be traveling to La Paz tomorrow and then to Copacabana and Lake Titicaca over the weekend. More on my trip and my special visitors next week…

In honor of the upcoming holiday, I thought I would post one of my favorite 4^th of July songs. One thing every person from the States learns once they visit South American is that you can no longer distinguish yourself by saying “I’m an American.” We all are – my family back home and my family in Bolivia. So, as Americans, I thought we could all share this song about our beautiful homeland – Bolivia, Arkansas, or wherever you may be on this side of the world.

America the Beautiful

Words by Katherine Lee Bates, Published July 4, 1895

Put to the music of Samuel A. Ward, 1910

O beautiful for spacious skies,
For amber waves of grain,
For purple mountain majesties
Above the fruited plain!
America! America!
God shed his grace on thee
And crown thy good with brotherhood
From sea to shining sea!

A day of celebration

I figured out what San Juan is about (see post below). San Juan is the day on the Catholic calendar honoring San Juan (or Saint John). I knew about Saint’s Days before coming here, but that never crossed my mind. Why there is a big party on this saint’s day, I’m still not sure – besides maybe because he was one of the more important ones.

This revelation came to me because Monday was the saint’s day for one of the prison’s namesake – San Pedro (Saint Peter). Consequently, the prison hosted a big party to celebrate, and I attended with some of my co-workers. The prisoners cooked potatoes, yucca, and plantains – and roasted up enough chicken for all the inmates and their families (it was the best chicken I’ve had in Bolivia). There was a DJ playing traditional music and people were dancing and singing and clapping along. They gave out 2 liters of coke to every family and, as is tradition at most celebrations, sprinkled confetti all over each other. Watching this scene was more like watching a block party than the goings-on of a prison. As we watched, one of my Bolivian co-workers leaned over and said, “There are some big disadvantages to being an inmate in Bolivia, but there are some positives as well.” I had to agree. He continued by saying that life is hard inside the prisons, but they try to leave some room for family and friends and some time to live a little. It’s true. All the way down to the letter of the law, Bolivians believe in the benefits of having your family close. And despite the extremely rough conditions, this day everyone seemed content and happy inside those walls.

Cup Cakes

This morning my host-mom and I were enjoying our traditional Sunday morning breakfast of buñuelos (funnel cake-like pastries) and Api (a thick, sweet/spicy drink made of red corn) and thumbing throught the Sunday paper. There, I noticed a half-page spread about a small company  in Cochabamba that has started selling cupcakes after experiencing them on a recent trip to the States. The article went on for paragraphs describing cupcakes as if they were kimodo dragons or something. It was strange to realize how something so common back home is so foreign, even newsworthy, down here – and yet they have their own delicious pastry creations like the one I ate this morning. Cupcakes – just one more thing I take for granted back home I guess – and one more bit of the USA that has now reached Cocha.